The Devil's Drink on a Budget

The Holler guide to inexpensive bourbon whiskeys

I’m usually opposed to reductive theories, but it is quite possible that civilization (or at least settled human existence) reduces down to the fermentation of the fruits of various plants.

My buddy Michael Martin recently called this song a ‘mystery religion.’

Though the beverage referred to by Pope Clement VIII as ‘the devil’s drink’ was coffee, whiskey (drop the ‘e’ if you’re Canadian or Scottish, keep it if you’re Irish or American) has also earned that appellation.

While wine has earned an aura of sanctity (Jesus turning water into wine, its use in the Eucharist, in vino veritas), whiskey has never really been seen as heavenly by the establishment. Even most of these songs are ambivalent about its overall virtues.

Yet angels and the devil show up in the lore of the distilling process (they do call liquor ‘spirits’ after all).

As bourbon ages (usually the longer the better; Pappy Van Winkle some 23 years- good luck mortgaging your house to get a bottle of that) some of the alcohol evaporates. Traditionally this is called ‘the angels’ share’. The other way the precious alcohol is lost in the process is through absorption into the new oak barrels bourbon is aged in. Over a decade ago, the fine folks at Jim Beam figured out a way to retrieve this alcohol, God bless ‘em, and they termed it ‘the devil’s cut.’

Bourbon, which I would like to focus on here, is basically any whiskey with a mash bill (the mix of corn, rye, and barley) of at least 51% corn, made in America, and aged in new oak barrels. However, bourbon is most properly made in Kentucky. That might be local pride, or history, but it also has to do with the soil the corn grows in and the way the water we have here is naturally filtered- it makes a difference.

I’m not sure why ‘Tennesse Whiskey.’ and Jack Daniels in particular, get so much hype. I mean, ‘ok,’ sour mash is sort of interesting. But it’s not really bourbon!

‘Top shelf’ bourbons will typically cost you $50-$80 a bottle with the really special ones going to infinity and beyond. I do think some of that money often ends up wasted, but there are really fine bourbon flavors that you can’t get on the cheap. Quality does matter. However, there are some surprisingly good bourbons one can get on a budget. Here are my personal recommendations.

Who wants to spend a lot of money to go to hell?

These are all good to sip ‘neat;’ heaven forbid you ever mix a bourbon into a cocktail (if you must, a slight chill from like one ice cube can be tolerated, on a warm evening). Though bourbons are sweet by their nature, I like it when the sweetness is complicated by some spice or other flavor to give you a bit more to think about.

A countdown from number five to number one.

5. Wild Turkey 101

Wild Turkey 101 is a solid high-proof (in my book anything over 100 proof) bourbon for around $25. Aged for six years, it has a distinctly spicey flavor and the warming feeling that comes with the proof.

Even better, for the exact same money, is the Wild Turkey 101 Rye Whiskey with a mash bill of 51% rye, 37% corn, and 12% malted barley. Heavy caramel, spice, and some vanilla. Long lasting on the palette.

4. Evan Williams 1783 (Small Batch)

This is my everyday go to bourbon. I consider 90 proof about perfect and there aren’t that many bourbons coming in higher than 80 and less than 100. It has the classic bourbon mash bill. Smooth and flavorful. Goes for about $22.

3. Bernheim

This is actually not a bourbon, but a Kentucky straight wheated whiskey with a mash bill of 51% wheat, 37% corn, and 12% malted barley. So, they basically have the wheat and the corn switch places and age it for 7 years. This is on the pricey end of my recommendations at nearly $35 a bottle (though the last time I purchased it, it was $21- don’t ask questions). Also 90 proof. This is quite a soft whiskey with an approachable nose. I enjoy this out of doors in the spring and fall.

2. Redemption High Rye Bourbon

I may go to purgatory- this one isn’t 100% Kentucky. Don’t trust other’s reviews of it. It got popular a few years ago and the bourbon snobs went crazy tearing it down. This bourbon is 36% rye with only 4% barley, so the sweet and the spicey go head-to-head. Lots of flavor. This whiskey is distilled in Lawrenceburg, Indiana, a whole (roughly) 200 yards outside of Kentucky, then barreled and aged in Bardstown, Kentucky. 92 proof, so in my sweet spot. About $25.

And the winner is….

1. Weller, Special Reserve (Green Label)

Though the ‘special reserve’ makes it sound fancy, this is actually the entry-level Weller bourbon- all the others are quite pricey. This one is around $25 when you can find it. In my experience, this one is never on the shelves in the store. It is produced in very limited quantities and is hard to find. It seems stores get maybe 2-3 bottles when it is released, yet they keep the price down. Makes it fun to keep an eye out for. This past year I managed to snag a bottle. This year, two so far (I had to violate the one bottle per customer rule). While this sipper is very modestly priced, the comparisons reviewers draw are to Pappy and Old Fitzgerald. Smooth, tasty, very nearly perfect (for us working slobs anyway).

Honorable Mention

Perhaps to make up for an Indiana bourbon making it on the list, Old Bardstown Bottled in Bond (bottled in bond is a technical term meaning it is bottled at 100 proof and all the contents come from a single barrel) is only available in Kentucky. Distilled by Willet, this is another entry level bourbon by a very fine, high-end distiller. Yum. In the $20-some range.

I’ve done a little whiskey talk, but the proof (pun intended) is in the pudding.

…and about the devil and the hell thing; hopefully it won’t come to that. Maybe it really is coffee!

…uh, oh, I drink that by the pot.

And then we come to the best song about bourbon.

Now, there’s a trinity!

Enjoy the holiday weekend, possibly with a dram of the spirit(s) of Kentucky.